We picked up a mooring in Ullapool, a place know to the skipper from years past. I was keen to explore so requested to go ashore at the earliest possible opportunity, my legs felt like they needed a really long walk. After a quick reconnoitre I decided on doing a bothy walk in the nearby area of Assynt and so took the bus to Inverness to get a backpack, more on the bothy in a separate post.
Ullapool is a ferry port for the Western Isles and located in Wester Ross, on the northwest coast of the Scottish highlands. The surrounding areas are filled with tremendous peaks, Beinns, Corbetts and unique geological features in and around the The Northwest Highlands Geopark. Indeed the founders of modern geology (Hutton, and later Lyell) created new theories from observing the landforms of this area and that adjacent of Assynt.
Part of what makes life on the water interesting is the constant changing conditions. The tide turns, the wind changes, the sun comes out, seals play around the boat; it's a moving scene and you are part of it. I delighted in the big gang of Eider ducks circulating around the harbour, a tight knit busy bunch filling the air with their distinctive oooooooohh! cries. Although we were quite far away from the terminal, when the ferry or other big fishing boats came into dock the sound of rushing water transmitted through the keel—an unnerving sound until I figured out what it was.
The gaudy black and white male Eiders with their darkly sleek brown females.
We were warmly greeted by locals from the sailing club and others known to the skipper from previous visits. We were also joined in the mooring pool by another yacht (not pictured) from Southhampton, Ciel 3, more of which to come. The owner Bill and his crew Colin, joined us for dinner the three nights they were there and a pleasant time was had by all. They left for Stornoway with the intention of sailing back to Southhampton after that through the Caledonian Canal.
A view of Ullapool town, not a big place it is nicely cosy though sadly lacking in decent pubs.
The Ullapool area has many well maintained tracks starting from the town basin. These tracks stretch for miles and go through varied landscapes. The peaty burns with their tea coloured water, all the russets, golden yellows, greens and browns, the landscape are a great source of inspiration and I never get tired of looking at and picking out the individual colours.
Looking west toward the Summer Isles, on a 'soft' day where the rain is fine and not too wet.
I have a book of walks for the area but the scale of the maps are confusing. Having got a late start I got disoriented and ended up abandoning my planned walk as advised by a nice man walking his little dog, because the ground ahead would have been too wet and boggy. I returned via the foreshore and along the river walk, a nice alternative.
HIdden behind Ullapool to the north is a small freshwater loch. From here a river runs into the sea and the forests of the river glen were full of chantrelles!
Scarcely visible but our first dusting of snow on the peaks in the deepening Autumn. Part of the Moine Thrust Zone visible on the centre left top of the pict. The colours!
Ullapool is on the geologically significant feature in the Moine Thrust Zone a structure that extends through the North West Highlands.
Ullapool sailing club has a fierce fleet of flying fifteens that get out and battle regularly.
The sailing club had a working bee and barbeque on what turned out to be a stunning autumn day, the day before we left for the summer isles to take advantage of the next weather window to cross the Minch. I was a little sad to leave this area but was also looking forward to getting Ironbark 3 settled into winter quarters and exploring Lewis and Harris.
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